Research on Xformance garments and biodegradable fibers

When we started talking about producing clothing independently we immediately encountered several problems. From the beginning we had various ideas in mind of how we wanted the products we designed to be, with what materials, with what workmanship and at what prices.
The reality is quite different however. We encountered the various issues that production presents, and how creating clothing is a complex process and dependent on numerous factors that together influence the final product.

First of all is the question of suppliers (mainly those who take care of the manufacturing). We live in Italy, one of the most industrialized geographical areas of the world when it comes to the textile industry. It is possible to create any type of product (in theory) just a few kilometers from anywhere, except that this is only valid when talking about “traditional” clothing and accessories (such as jersey, leather goods, knitwear etc.). The discussion regarding what is defined as “technical” is rather different and of a high level only for limited product categories.

Several embroidery trials with different threads and fabrics

Furthermore, it is difficult to access suppliers who want to follow an independent project, based on small quantities and on which there is no guarantee in terms of numbers and sales. And when it is necessary to work on garments that do not fall within the classic product categories of traditional clothing, it requires further effort and personnel dedicated to the development of the techniques suitable for its creation. And this happens every time we talk about technical materials, specific hardware and unusual processes. The only way to overcome these obstacles is to cultivate a relationship of mutual trust between those who design the garments and the suppliers. This relationship must be cultivated both in the work and personal fields.

The design must also make compromises required by production capacity. From certain points of view, this can be a limit, but also an opportunity, as a simplification of patterns is required, a reduction in waste, and the search for easy but functional solutions that are easily implementable with the resources available.

Lola shot at the NO SHOW OFFICIAL by Sofia Blu Cremaschi in Paris.

The sourcing of materials is equally complex. Paradoxically, it is easier to have access to a few meters of fabric for micro-projects rather than quantities of between 50 and 300 metres. In the first case you have access to the leftovers and stocks of retailers who often have excellent products but hardly guarantee resupply in the event of exhaustion. In the second case you have to deal directly with the producers where 300 meters is the MOQ (sometimes 500m) to be able to start production unless you pay huge increases on the price of the fabric. One way to get around this is to try to work with raw fabrics as much as possible. The further back you go in the production scale, the more likely it is that there will be greater quantities available ready (often undyed, untreated, uncalendered, etc.). We worked alot with fabrics that are ready to be dyed, which we can sell by dyeing the fabric ourselves or giving the consumer the chance to dye it themselves.

It therefore came naturally, when we entrusted ourselves to laboratories, to start from simple paper patterns, materials and processes as it was the only way to not sacrifice quality and try to introduce technological improvements along the way.

We started by focusing on a few designs such as the Fubar pants which perform in all outdoor activities (until you reach the aerobic phase) but up to now we have not been able to offer “active” equipment.
Now that the times are more mature we have started to introduce  the first garments that are designed for sporting activity, i.e. with a high heart rate and with a high need to manage sweat.

We have defined these garments within our label XFORMANCE (:pəˈfɔːməns).

A set of repair patches for broken garments (available on our webshop)

Within this category there are Polyester and Nylon shirts (to ensure they dry quickly) with UV100 sun protection, Head gaiters, Mirage jackets and socks available with both recycled and biodegradable fibers (the synthetic fiber used AMNI Soul Eco® allows the garment if placed in an anaerobic environment to COMPLETELY DISAPPEAR after 4 years).

Below are the photos taken by Sofia Blu Cremaschi with the new items available.
Style by Silvia Vinci
Set design by Alessandro Mensi
Make-up is by Serena di Rocco
Photo assistant Vanda di Giovanni
Style assistant Jennifer Gervasi
Casting by Alison Bizzi
The models are Brando (lacortedeimiracoliagency) and Odeon (Morfosi)
Thanks also to MSR and Thermarest for the props


The new garments are also available at our retailer network

Dover Street Market Paris – France
Outsiders Store – England
Refresh Shop – Italy
SAiSON – France
Slam Jam – Italy
VIETTI – Italy

FRAME – Dubai

8division – South Korea
Comrade – Hong Kong
Edition – Japan
HEIGHTS – South Korea
Lab Taipei – Taiwan
Lovestore – Japan
WORKSOUT – South Korea

Good As Gold – New Zealand
H A V N – Australia
Perks And Mini – Australia
Lo-Fi – Australia

Dover Street Market Los Angeles – United States
Dover Street Market New York – United States